The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Category Asia

The Big Indochina Trip: Kampong Khleang floating village

There are several floating villages in Tonle Sap  lake/river (the distinction between them is a moot point). The most easily accessible from Siem Reap is Chong Khneas but I’ve heard it’s a bit of a Disney land with more tourists than locals and plenty of people trying to scam you,  so I didn’t want to go there. Somewhat further away is Kampong Phluk which is an authentic village but apparently it’s quite small so a visit there will be very short. About 50 kilometers from the city is Kampong Khleang which is a much larger town than Kampong Phluk with … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: the temples of Angkor, the last day. 

After our sunrise excursion yesterday we decided to let ourselves sleep as long as we wanted. We spent the morning shopping for handicrafts and taking care of various other things. 

After lunch we called up our tuk tuk driver and set off to the temples one last time. We started with one called Preah Khan which is just north of Angkor Thom. It is in much worse shape than the others, with large piles of rubble, and whole rooms that are inaccessible. The parts that are still standing however have some beautiful carvings.

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The Big Indochina Trip: the temples of Angkor day 2

I’ve heard from several sources that you should see Angkor Wat at sunrise, so this morning we forced ourselves out of our comfortable bed at four o’clock. Our Tuk Tuk driver picked us up and we set off into the cold, starry night. 

When we arrived at the temple there were already some people waiting but we managed to claim a spot right at the edge of the pool facing the temple. Soon there was a veritable crowd, three rows deep lining the edge of the pool, we were lucky to be so early. After a while we started seeing … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: temples of Angkor day 1

From Sihanoukville we took a night bus to Siem Reap. The bus was surprisingly good and we were both able to sleep most of the way. When we arrived we were lucky enough to be able to check in right away. After resting up for a little while we headed out to what is bound to be an important part of any trip to Cambodia, the temples of Angkor. 

Our original plan was to rent a motorbike but I read that there is some kind of ban on renting motorbikes for use in the city and apparently there are a … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: island life in Koh Rong 

I haven’t seen the sea since leaving Cat ba island so when I read about white sand beaches in southern Cambodia I knew I had to go there. Thanks to a recommendation from some other travelers we set our sights on Koh Rong island. It took a full day to get there, first a bus to Sihanoukville then a speed boat ferry from there. The island is not very developed, save for the main boat pier, most of the hotels and restaurants are right on the beach. There is a kind of main area where the bars and restaurants are … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: back to Phnom Penh

Having seen all there is to see in Kampong Thom, we headed back to Phnom Penh right after breakfast. We arrived at our hostel around lunch and, since we weren’t able to access the room for about two hours, we decided to kill the time by going to the nearby Wat Phnom which is one of the main temples in the city.

I feel a bit templed out so I didn’t take as many photos as normal but it’s nice all the same. The inside especially has some nice paintings depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life. 

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The Big Indochina Trip: ancient temples at Sambor Prei Kuk

For some reason, the name Sambor Prei Kuk has stuck in my mind after flipping through the guidebook countless times. When I looked up the details I realized it’s only about 200 kilometers from Phnom Penh which is suitable for an overnight trip. 

We got on the bus in the morning, and sadly the aircon wasn’t quite as good as advertised so it wasn’t a very pleasant ride. A little worse for wear, we arrived in Kampong Thom (the closest city to Sambor Prei Kuk) in the early afternoon. We checked in to a surprisingly nice hotel, rented a  motorbike … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: exploring Phnom Penh 

After the harrowing journey here it has felt really good to not have to travel for a few days, just stay in one hotel. I came down with a case of traveler’s diarrhea so I’ve been cooped up in the hotel for a day but other than that we’ve been out exploring the city.

Right around the corner from our hotel is the National Museum of Cambodia. It houses quite a collection of ancient statues from all around the country.  The building itself is pretty nice too.

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The Big Indochina Trip: seven buses and a taxi.

After many trials and tribulations I’m finally in Phnom Penh. I started at eight in the morning at the travel agent where I left the motorbike, with a large tourist bus. The air con was cranked all the way to eleven, some of the airvents even had curtains stuffed in them to stem the flow. Since I was in sneakers and long trousers it was ok though.

We took off about twenty minutes after schedule and stopped a few times along the way so when we reached Nakasong ferry terminal  it was already eleven. I thought the people headed for … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: workaround and waterfalls

There are two possible solutions to my border problems that I can think of: to sell the bike here and possibly buy a new one in Cambodia, or to stash the bike here, go to Cambodia for a few days. Then, when I have been away for long enough to avoid the 30 day rule for Vietnamese visa exemptions, come back, collect the bike and ride it back to Vietnam and from there into Cambodia. 

I was lucky enough to find a way to combine the two methods which gives me more options than anything else. I put an add … Read the rest

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