The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Category Frozen Moments

The Big Indochina Trip: an excursion to Pattaya 

I don’t know when or where I heard it but the name Pattaya has stuck in my mind as a place to go for beaches and nightlife. Some quick research showed that Pattaya is pretty touristic and that you can do much better for relaxing at the beach, and since I’m not much of a party guy some place like Hua Hin would probably be a better option for me. However, I just couldn’t get the name Pattaya out of my head, I had to see it for myself.

I read that the main beach in Pattaya city is pretty … Read the rest

Jomtien beach, 4:43 pm

This is the most exploited beach I’ve seen in a long time. Miles and miles of parasols and deck chairs set back from the water under the the shade of a row of trees, behind them, a wide road lined with shops and restaurants and out in the water, by some floating jetties, a whole flotilla of boats and jet skis. Far in the distance, tall white skyscrapers that I can only presume are hotels. I like a good beach but this level of exploitation kills the relaxed vibe.… Read the rest

Wat Pho 2:11 pm

The backside of the reclining Buddha, all you can see of the statue is his back, the folds of his robes hanging down to the pedestal and the pillars supporting the roof. On the opposite side of the corridor is a row of brass bowls on little stands. In each one of them is a number of coins and the room is filled with the plinking sound as people keep dropping more coins in the bowls. They go along the corridor, dropping a coin in each one then moving on to the next. It’s some kind of ritual and though … Read the rest

Emerald Buddha chapel, 11:01 am

The walls are covered in murals depicting scenes from some kind of Buddhist or Hindu mythology. The roof, high above my head, is decorated with square, geometric patterns in red and gold and adorned with crystal flowers. Towards the back of the room is a large altar with several standing Buddha statues on it, their palms facing outwards. On each side of the altar is a small stepped dais on top of which is a Buddha statue, larger than the others but also with the palms facing outwards, adorned with a crown, the face and palms are covered in gold … Read the rest

Wat Pra Kaeow, 10:45 am

Two buildings right next to each other, one predominantly blue, the other predominantly green. The walls are covered in glazed, lozenge shaped tiles, each of which is adorned with a bas relief flower; the gaps between the tiles is painted gold. The multi tiered roofs, tiled in red and green, are supported by pillars covered in mirror glass mosaic sparkling with silver in the sun, and gold painted decorations. It’s all a bit hard to take in, so much splendor, so much fine detail. Of course, it doesn’t help that the place is crowded with tourists, every time you want … Read the rest

Bat cave, 5:54 pm 

Bats, thousands, maybe even millions of them are streaming out of a large hole high up on the cliff face. They flow out in a long stream across the road, over the tree tops and out into the fields, flying back and forth and around each other at random, which makes it look like a pillar of black smoke, billowing in the wind. I stand watching, caught in a state of utter fascination.… Read the rest

Bamboo train, 9:58 am

We are rushing through the lush green landscape, the track shooting off through the undergrowth to some point in the far distance. The rails aren’t completely straight, they undulate slightly as if bent by the heat, and our little rail car keeps getting jolted from side to side. The noise of the wheels against the rails drowns out all other sound except for the loud TITAK TITAK  every time we pass over the gap between two misaligned sections of rail. Me and my fellow passengers sit or recline on worn out cushions on a simple wooden frame covered with bamboo slats, … Read the rest

Sangker river, 12:52 pm

We are sailing through a field, there’s not even a channel anymore, just a mass of floating plants, big bulbous roots under water and green stems culminating in thick, waxy, cup like leaves. The boat goes through them, crushing them beneath the prow, and our wake sends large ripples through the  field. Behind me I can hear the engine straining as the propeller chews through the vegetation.… Read the rest

Tonle Sap, 8:25 am

The channel we’re sailing along is barley wider than our boat, the edges lined with submerged  trees and water living vegetation. The branches keep scraping along the sides, some even reaching in through the open windows, bending back then twanging forward in a shower of leaves and twigs as they hit the pillars supporting  the roof, and I have to keep ducking to avoid getting slapped in the face. I never thought taking a regular passenger ferry would be such an adventure.… Read the rest

Siem Reap night market, 9:20 pm 

A small stage: the backdrop, the curtains and all the other hangings are made from silver colored spangly cloth. At the center of the backdrop is a large  photograph showing three men in make up and women’s clothing with the text “Free Daily Ladyboy Show” printed in purple across the bottom. Along the front edge of the stage is a line of multi colored LED lights, and above it a large mirror ball. There are no proper seats for the audience, just two rows of pink massage chairs, the people having their massage getting treated to a free show no … Read the rest

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