The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Category Frozen Moments

Hukou 6:38 pm

I’m on a motorcycle, not a scooter this time but a proper one, with manual gearbox and all. I’m sitting upright on the loaf of bread saddle, bright green gas tank up front, gripped between my thighs for stability. I come to a part of the road where the vegetation on the side gives way and you get a view out over the fields. As I do, the orange glow of the setting sun lights up my face and I can see the world in front of me in splendid colors. At that moment, and for one moment only, I … Read the rest

Nanzhuang mountains 7:15 pm

Umbrellas in our hands to shield us against the rain, we walk down a small dirt road in the dark. Save for a few burst from the flashlight to make sure we don’t veer off into the undergrowth, it is near perfect dark. A deep, blueish grey mist hangs over the mountain, the beam from the flashlight spreads a diffuse white glow around us. Against this misty background, the profiles of trees rise up from the shadowy undergrowth, black shapes on a dark background. Among all these half visible shadows are dazzling lights, hundreds of small, florescent dots, lighting up … Read the rest

Nanzhuang mountains 5:19 pm

We follow a small mountain road until we reach a fork, I take the left, which seems to be the main road, but my girlfriend points out it might be wrong, so I back up and turn right. We are now faced with a muddy, broken piece of road undergoing repairs. Gingerly I inch the car forward and, like a little donkey it takes us past without a hitch. It seems this short stretch of roadworks has transported us off the relative comfort of Taiwanese roads to a more remote area a South American jungle. The road is narrow and … Read the rest

Zhushan mountains, 5:41 pm

We are walking on a small road winding it’s way along the mountain face. The sun has been drenched by the evening mists that shroud the peaks, and the heat of the day is beginning to dissipate. The mountain rises steeply upward to my left, rows upon rows of tea bushes covering the mountainside in a pattern of dark green stripes and waves. To my right, the slope is covered by bamboo trees, the thin, straight reeds creating a surprisingly sparse forest. It occurs to me that we are walking between fields of two quintessentially Asian plants, as if walking … Read the rest

Neiwan hotspring 6:54 pm

I get out of the hot pool, run a few steps, and sink into the, to me, frigid waters of the the cool one. A wave of cold washes over me but I remain, sitting as still as possible, letting the water settle around me. After about a minute, the wavelets on the surfaces have died out and my body has recuperated from the initial shock. If I avoid moving my limbs, I don’t feel the acute cold, just a sort of chill that makes the hairs on my body rise. Gradually I start to feel the pumping of my … Read the rest

End of Gong Dao Wu Road 9:54 pm

Even though we are well within the city limits, on a big road no less, the street lights suddenly end. As we pass the boundary between bright orange and near complete darkness, the head light on my scooter becomes our main light source. A couple of concrete barricades stop us from entering the main road surface but the bike path is free,so we move forward on that until we pass the barriers. As soon as we enter the wider lanes in the center of the road, I open up the throttle and yell with excitement as we accelerate down the … Read the rest

Sannegårshamnen 2:04 pm

When I woke up this morning I felt sure my cold would keep me indoors all day but, with the sun shining brightly through my window, I decided a small cold couldn’t kill me, grabbed my bike and ventured out. That turned out to be a stroke of genius, for here I am, a bright blue sky above, the sun on my face for the first time in ages, and I’m walking on the Ice. Admittedly, I’m really just crossing a small, man made bay and I know that it doesn’t sound all that impressive, but given the dreary weather we normally … Read the rest

Grängesberg ski slope, 10:26 am

It’s a few degrees above freezing, a milky grey mist hangs low over the hills and there is a fine drizzle in the air. The trees are bare and lifeless, bland pop music is blaring from a subpar speaker system and the snow is beige rather than white. It is possible to ski but it feels all wrong; the snow is either too hard or too soft and sticky, it’s not cold enough to give the air that crisp feeling and the dreary weather is just depressing. I can not muster up the enthusiasm to say that it is fun … Read the rest

Romme Alpin 10:13 am

An observation on human behavior: There are two lifts that take you to the main summit of this ski slope; one is a chairlift that seats six abreast, the other is a dual anchor lift. They are roughly equally fast, the only difference is that one allows you to sit down for a few minutes while in the other you stand up, getting pulled by a plastic hook behind your legs; not so that it is painful, just a bit less lazy than the chair. And yet, with such a small difference between the lifts, there is a massive queue … Read the rest

Postojna caves 12 noon

The air gets chillier as the small, open train takes us through a tunnel of rough rocks into the underground. The tunnel opens up onto a new world full of limestone formations, stalactites hanging from the ceiling, stalagmites growing up from the ground, free standing pillars and curtains clinging to the wall. Some are lit up by strategically placed lamps while others lay in shadow, creating a captivating play of light. Some times the train winds through narrow passages that then open up into large caverns. The landscape is fascinating for an inexperienced spelunker like me, just too bad there … Read the rest

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