The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Category Frozen Moments

The road to Dalat, 1:21 pm 

I’m truly in the countryside now, a few houses here and there but otherwise not a sign of civilization. The road winds leisurely through a landscape so green you almost can’t believe it, trees and bushes of all kinds on both sides. In the distance lie low hills like camel humps. The road surface is in a state of disrepair, I bump along at a slow pace, keeping a sharp lookout for potholes that are so big I would probably go flying over the handlebars if I hit one with speed. I’d like to pay more attention to the landscape … Read the rest

Highway AH1, 1:00 pm 

I’ve finally left the city behind, there are trees on the side of the road and even some mountains in the distance. I’ve hit my second tropical rain shower of the day; my poncho will keep me dry but it’s big and flowing and flies in the wind, flapping out behind me like I’m freaking Batman or something. Theme song of the day: Na na na na na na Batman… Read the rest

Tran Hung Dao 8:20 pm

I’m no more than 50 meters from the backpacker ghetto where the restaurants never seem to get enough customers, staff standing on the street trying to entice foreign tourists with their happy hour offers. Here however, not a single person has asked me to go in, yet the restaurants are full, groups of locals having dinner and drinking beer, no booming music just friendly banter. The two scenes so close by, yet the contrast between them is so big.… Read the rest

Just outside Can Tho, 12 noon

An arrow straight strip of asphalt stretches through the lush landscape out towards the tree line at the horizon. The sun shines brightly from an azure sky filled with dramatic clouds. The speedometer shows a clean 80 kph, ah, I feel so alive.… Read the rest

Somewhere near Vinh Long, 5pm

The sun is shining,  the rain seems to have dried up completely; the road is straight, only one way forward, with trees and small shops by the side, I keep the throttle at a steady 60 km/h. The theme to Smoky and the Bandit keeps playing in the back of my mind as I reflect on my first day of riding in Vietnam: my bag falling off the luggage rack, the rickety wooden bridge, the water buffalo by the road side. So many impressions just in one day…… Read the rest

Sanming Road, 10:10pm

A typhoon is approaching, it was raining cats and dogs earlier but by now it has calmed down and it’s no longer so bad that it’s an excuse for shirking my exercise routine. The foul weather is keeping all the other schmucks indoors so at least there aren’t any onlookers or stragglers, but I was hoping it would be windy enough to keep me cool; I was wrong, thanks to my Swedish genome I am sweating in the rain. I swat at the dripping leaves as I run by, hoping the spray will cool me off but to no avail, … Read the rest

Under the unobtainable balcony 1:40 pm.

Bushwacking uphill in 35 degree heat under a scorching sun is hard work. My entire body is drenched in sweat and my heart is beating so hard I can feel the thumping in my shoulder blades, but I finally made it to the building with the unobtainable balcony. I can see the stairs up, they are just 20 meters away and I’m filled with anticipation, but first I need to rest.… Read the rest

Company parking lot, 1:40 pm

My boss has sent me to the head office on the other side of town and I need to be there shortly after two which behooves me to set out right after lunch. I’ve only gone the short distance from the door to my parking space at the far end of the lot but I’m already sweating from thr midday heat, and despite being protected by my jeans, the seat of the scooter feels like sitting on a frying pan. Normally the slipstream would be enough to cool me down a bit but as I speed up, even the wind … Read the rest

Fuguo road, 6:11 pm.

Big drops are falling from a leaden sky, pitter patterning against the visor of my helmet. The low clouds have made the backstreets of my evening commute even more dull than normal,  nothing but wet asphalt and grey buildings all the way. I mount the steep slope of the bridge across the highway, and just as I reach the crest, the world opens up in front of me. In the distance, visible only because the rain has cleared away the smog of the city, I can see the mountains; layers upon layers of ever darkening shades of green against the … Read the rest

Over the Alps, 11:50 am

I put my book down and look out the window. Normally all  I could see would be the blue sky delineated by the wing of the plane, but now, below us, I see the Alps. A vast range of mountains stretching off in all directions, stark grey tops covered in pristine snow that make me wish I could be there right now, riding my snowboard. Moments later a valley appears, starting somewhere under me and stretching out in a quarter circle towards the tip of the wing. The sides of the valley are a deep forest green, with lighter shades … Read the rest

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