The chamber we are in is enormous, the vaulted roof as high as that of a church and at least 30 meters from wall to wall. On the sides, gentle slopes of bare rock come down towards the water, forming a sort of outcrop where there is a bend in the river, the boat skimming across the gravel just inches below the surface. The whole scene illuminated by the greyish light of our flashlights as they focus on different parts of the surroundings.… Read the rest
We are on a small outcrop of rock, both behind and in front of us lies the shallow river. We are waiting while the driver pulls the boat over some rocky rapids. In the distance sunlight spills in through the jagged mouth of the cave, illuminating the white and ochre colored walls, and the green of the jungle outside reflected in the surface of the water. A large white rock topped with green sits right in the middle of the opening, the only place exposed to enough light for something to grow.… Read the rest
Our little motorized long tail canoe is speeding into the darkness, guided by nothing but the head lamp of the driver. The boat lies low in the water, the surface just inches from the sides and it feels like any movement could tip us over. To the sides and above us the vaulted roof of the cave, bare grey rock rushing past, illuminated by the dancing beams of our flashlights.… Read the rest
The road is on an embankment connecting I don’t know how many little islands. Around me, forested hilltops and flooded valleys, dead trees sticking up from the mirror smooth surface of the water. My eyes are streaming with tears from the chilly head wind as I connect swooping turn with swooping turn as fast as I dare go. I can’t help but scream with joy.… Read the rest
I’m on the stairs up to a small shrine atop a kind of obelisk-like stupa. The stairs are so steep and the steps so narrow it feels more like a ladder than actual stairs; there are no railings, nothing to hold on to, and it feels very precarious standing here. Behind and beneath me a whole bunch of statues are spread out across a field of green grass. They depict all manner of gods and creatures from Buddhist and Hindu mythology, each more fantastical than the next. This place is just fascinating.… Read the rest
I am at the center of a large, ball-like concrete structure. The Windows to the outside only let in minimal light and I sweep my flashlight around me to see where I am. The room I’m in is some kind of representation of Buddhist hell because lining the walls is a large number of statues depicting terrible scenes: demons preparing to behead humans, snake people twirling around each other in dance, and gods holding skulls in their hands. I know they are only statues and it’s the middle of the day but still kind of creepy.… Read the rest
In front of me is a giant, pumpkin-like structure, a big ball with lots of little windows around the circumference. On the top is a kind of spire, branching out in the middle to form a sort of eye like pattern against the blue sky. A couple of people are walking around on the small platform around the spire, looking at the view. Right in front of me is a large, terrible face with angry eyes and gaping mouth that acts as the entrance to the structure. It is one of the most bizarre things I’ve seen in a long … Read the rest
Well this is new, the road is actually straight, and not just for a few hundred meters; no, it has been straight for at least a couple of kilometers and it looks to be straight for several kilometers more. Sure there is only one lane in each direction, sure the surface is kind of rough but it’s neither bumpy not twisting. This is the closest thing to a highway I’ve seen in all of Laos so far. Amazing!… Read the rest
I’m floating down the river in an old tractor inner tube, it has been yellow but the paint has faded and peeled off from use and the black rubber is showing through. The water is a muddled brownish green color and the sun, already sinking lower, is sparkling on the surface like liquid silver. I lean back, raise my feet out of the water and relax. In front of me the spectacular Laotian nature, karst cliffs rising up out the jungle, and behind me the other tubers, all swimming suit clad bodies and yellow tubes, floating lazily along with me.… Read the rest
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