The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Month December 2016

Toul Sleng prison, 11:10 am

This used to be a classroom, white concrete walls, yellow and white tiled floor, even  an old black board at one end. A hole has been knocked though the back wall, a rough opening connecting this room with the next like a long corridor. The walls on both sides are lined with cells, doors that swing open on rusty hinges. Simple wooden partitions that have been installed for separating the inmates from each other, each cell about two meters long and no wider than I can touch both walls simultaneously with my elbows. I can but imaging being locked in … Read the rest

Toul Sleng prison 10:27 am

In the room there are four large, freestanding notice boards, two on each side. Both the front and back of these are covered in photographs, all black and white, all the same size, neatly organized in a grid pattern. The photos all depict the same thing, faces, people looking straight into the camera, not a single smile among them. All the people have number tags hung around their necks, a few of them have fresh bruises on their face and a large amount hold their arms behind their backs, their shoulders twisted backwards. These are pictures of prisoners, brought here … Read the rest

Phnom Penh royal palace, 3:42 pm

We’re on a sort of raised, circular platform, the circumference of which is planted with trees that obscure the view from the outside. It’s like being in a clearing in the forest only it’s in the middle of the palace grounds. The edge of the circle is lined with Buddha statues and in the middle a stupa with white walls and golden spire. On one side there is an open door leading in to a small shrine. The stupa and shrine are nothing compared to the splendor of the surrounding palaces and temples but with all the trees it feels … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: seven buses and a taxi.

After many trials and tribulations I’m finally in Phnom Penh. I started at eight in the morning at the travel agent where I left the motorbike, with a large tourist bus. The air con was cranked all the way to eleven, some of the airvents even had curtains stuffed in them to stem the flow. Since I was in sneakers and long trousers it was ok though.

We took off about twenty minutes after schedule and stopped a few times along the way so when we reached Nakasong ferry terminal  it was already eleven. I thought the people headed for … Read the rest

Highway 7 near Chub, 8:35 pm.

Our minibus is parked in the side of the road with the engine still running. The driver is outside, trying to call for assistance while the  passengers are stuck inside with the closed-in heat and smell of diesel. The engine is running badly, it sounds like an old tractor and the whole bus is shaking with the thumping rhythm of the piston strokes. The letters VIP, printed in white on the rear window, seem very ironic now.… Read the rest

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