Month November 2016
The main reason people come to Thakhek is to do The Loop, a three day round trip by motorbike that not only goes through beautiful scenery but passes by a number of caves and lakes where you can go swimming. I decided to do the loop anti clockwise, starting with the caves just east of Thakhek.
Xang cave is reachable via a dirt road just off the main road and you have to ford a small river to reach it. The cave itself is not much, just a couple of Buddha statues and it’s not really worth the trouble of … Read the rest
The chamber we are in is enormous, the vaulted roof as high as that of a church and at least 30 meters from wall to wall. On the sides, gentle slopes of bare rock come down towards the water, forming a sort of outcrop where there is a bend in the river, the boat skimming across the gravel just inches below the surface. The whole scene illuminated by the greyish light of our flashlights as they focus on different parts of the surroundings.… Read the rest
We are on a small outcrop of rock, both behind and in front of us lies the shallow river. We are waiting while the driver pulls the boat over some rocky rapids. In the distance sunlight spills in through the jagged mouth of the cave, illuminating the white and ochre colored walls, and the green of the jungle outside reflected in the surface of the water. A large white rock topped with green sits right in the middle of the opening, the only place exposed to enough light for something to grow.… Read the rest
Our little motorized long tail canoe is speeding into the darkness, guided by nothing but the head lamp of the driver. The boat lies low in the water, the surface just inches from the sides and it feels like any movement could tip us over. To the sides and above us the vaulted roof of the cave, bare grey rock rushing past, illuminated by the dancing beams of our flashlights.… Read the rest
The road is on an embankment connecting I don’t know how many little islands. Around me, forested hilltops and flooded valleys, dead trees sticking up from the mirror smooth surface of the water. My eyes are streaming with tears from the chilly head wind as I connect swooping turn with swooping turn as fast as I dare go. I can’t help but scream with joy.… Read the rest
I’ve been on the road for two days now. My goal was Thakhek which is just a little bit too far to do in one day.
Just a short distance outside Vientiane is a park called Xieng Khuan Buddha park. It is meadow full of Buddhist and Hindu statues. Though many of them look ancient they were made using concrete starting in 1958 by a priest-shaman called Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat. The statues depict all manner of gods and creatures out of Buddhist and Hindu mythology; it’s a mix between weird and scary. The most prominent statue is a large … Read the rest
I’m on the stairs up to a small shrine atop a kind of obelisk-like stupa. The stairs are so steep and the steps so narrow it feels more like a ladder than actual stairs; there are no railings, nothing to hold on to, and it feels very precarious standing here. Behind and beneath me a whole bunch of statues are spread out across a field of green grass. They depict all manner of gods and creatures from Buddhist and Hindu mythology, each more fantastical than the next. This place is just fascinating.… Read the rest
I am at the center of a large, ball-like concrete structure. The Windows to the outside only let in minimal light and I sweep my flashlight around me to see where I am. The room I’m in is some kind of representation of Buddhist hell because lining the walls is a large number of statues depicting terrible scenes: demons preparing to behead humans, snake people twirling around each other in dance, and gods holding skulls in their hands. I know they are only statues and it’s the middle of the day but still kind of creepy.… Read the rest
In front of me is a giant, pumpkin-like structure, a big ball with lots of little windows around the circumference. On the top is a kind of spire, branching out in the middle to form a sort of eye like pattern against the blue sky. A couple of people are walking around on the small platform around the spire, looking at the view. Right in front of me is a large, terrible face with angry eyes and gaping mouth that acts as the entrance to the structure. It is one of the most bizarre things I’ve seen in a long … Read the rest
I had one main mission for today, getting my luggage rack fixed. It took me most of the morning to find a place that could do welding work and another hour or so to get the work done. Final result: the luggage rack is now nice and solid. Mind you it felt pretty solid after the last time I fixed it too, but I’m more confident this time. Hopefully it will hold up for the rest of the journey.
Once I got the bike fixed I had some lunch … Read the rest