The sign says “No photograph” but they can’t stop me from taking one without a camera. In front of me is a kind of gilded bas-relief depicting two griffins facing each other and on top of them two fantastical snakes facing away from each other, their tales entwined in the middle. Behind it a stepped dias done in red and gold, at the top of which is a kind of pavilion, two pillars on each side supporting a stepped roof. Under the roof is a small gilded Buddha statue, standing erect with palms facing outwards. At the foot of the dias are some low tables holding a carved stone and two candles. All around the dias the walls and pillars of the temple are covered in decorative bas-relief patterns done in gold against a scarlet background. So much gold, so much splendor, I just try to take it all in.