The collected writings of a Renegade Tourist

Month October 2016

Vinh Moc tunnels,  entrance 9, 11:44 am

I’m only a few meters from the entrance where a little bit of daylight spills in, and already it’s completely dark when I turn off my flashlight, I literally cannot see my hand in front of my face. I am truly in the underground, where human eyes cannot penetrate the darkness no matter how used they get to it. I don’t dare to go further in because there are no lights to guide the way and getting lost down in some old tunnels from the Vietnamese war is not a particularly appealing prospect. Instead I just stand here for a … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Imperial Hue

When I  woke up this morning it was raining heavily. I waited until it had settled down a bit then got on the bike and headed to my next goal, Hue city. 

I’m sure I’ve said it before but it  bears repeating, this is a really gorgeous country to ride through. Sure,  sometimes you will be on the noisy and crowded expressway racking up the miles, but as soon as you get into the countryside,  the landscape becomes really photogenic. So, despite the rain, I stopped a few times to take pictures 

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Bach Dang street, 6:24 pm

Yesterday evening was a festival night and there were lots of people here. Today it’s back to normal, every day life and the streets are almost empty. A little while ago it was raining which kept people indoors. Now the rain has stopped but people aren’t coming out, not even the tourists. In the daytime this place is bustling with people but now it’s so empty. It feels so strange.… Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: Hoi An and My Son 

Hoi An is a very relaxed city, compared to Ho Chi Minh it barely counts as a city at all. The main draw is the ancient town, a fairly large area of small, old houses that counts as a UNESCO world heritage. It’s a bit touristic as almost all the houses have been turned into shops and restaurants, and most of the people you meet there are foreigners, but it’s very atmospheric none the less. I spent a good portion of my first day in Hoi An just walking around randomly in the old town. It felt really nice to … Read the rest

Le Loi street, 7:15 pm

The street is lined with red and yellow lanterns enticing people in to the various shops and restaurants. Green lanterns have been strung across the street like pearl necklaces. The whole place is bathed in a soft multicolored glow, giving it a special atmosphere. Tonight a festival is in town and there are loads of people milling around, locals and tourists alike. There’s that happy feeling in the air that only a festival can bring about. Normally I would enjoy walking around looking at things but I’ve had some trouble with that lifeblood of a modern traveler, my phone, which … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: hauling ass to Hoi An

Before this trip started I made a rule for myself that I should  not ride more than 200 kilometers a day. Today I broke that rule by a large margin. You see, in order to get more time in Hoi An and Hue I needed  to get there as fast as possible, so instead of staying over in some beach town I decided to go as far north as I could in a day, hoping I could reach Hoi An by nightfall. My backup plan,  in case I got too tired, was to take a hotel in Quang Ngai.

 I … Read the rest

The Big Indochina Trip: from Dalat to the coast 

There are a few sights inside Daly city but the main draw is the surrounding nature. The general recommendation for seeing said nature is to join an easy rider motorcycle tour, but since I have my own bike I decided to combine the motorbike tour with the ride to my next stop for the night. Before setting off however, I went sightseeing in the city, starting with Hang Nga Crazy House. It’s a building with very unique architecture and while the architect still lives there you can walk around and explore it.

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Coastal road South of Tuy Hoa, 5 pm

I’ve seriously had it with this incessant rain, like Samuel L Jackson in Snakes on a plane would have said: enough is enough! It spoils the fun of riding by making the road slippery, it ruins any photo ops offered by the gorgeous scenery I’m passing, but worst of all, I’m getting soaked despite my rain gear. It is utterly and completely miserable.… Read the rest

The road to Nha Trang, 1:35 pm 

I have entered the mist, it swirls around me almost completely blocking my view. Though I can hardly see them, I know that to my right is the cliff edge and to my left a wall of rock rising sharply upwards; ahead of me I can just make out a few meters of the road and that’s it. I lean forward and peer into the milky whiteness, hoping I can spot oncoming obstacles in time….… Read the rest

Crazy house 9:30 am

I’m in the strangest piece of architecture I have ever seen.  There are stairs and walkways going every which way; twisting and turning they interconnect the different buildings, going up and over the roof of one, then down into the center of another. They have been made to look like tree branches with the railings like vines and the buildings that themselves look organic, like tree trunks. The main building however looks like a normal house…kind of, the lines are all crooked like it was drawn by a five year old, with decoration to match, all tinseled and sparkling. The … Read the rest

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